
There are a few more parts to a
speaker but these are the parts you are interested in for recording.
The speaker frame:
The stamped steel or cast aluminum metal shell that makes up the
support of the speaker.
The speaker frame is bolted to the speaker baffle.
The
main speaker cone:
Some are smooth and some are ribbed. Both sound different.
Take a look at Webervst.com and you can compare the differences.
Vintage low wattage speakers used thin paper which compress
and distort in a nice way. This is the sound of vintage small amps, and
his is
why people pay big bucks for the vintage sound. This thin paper has a
very
distinct sound. Some amp companies have gone to great lengths to get
the exact
thickness and type of paper used in these vintage speakers.
Most modern speakers made for high wattage use heavy paper to support the high wattage being reproduced. If you play loud rock and really push your speakers then this is what you need . If you are playing through a low wattage amp and don’t need the wattage you can afford to use the vontage thin cone material in vintage new and old speakers. Wars have been fought over these topics…
In the center of the speaker the cone is glued to a tube
that fits over the magnet. Most speakers have a cap glued over this
opening
called the dust cap. Some speakers have a paper cap and some have a
mesh
screen
cap that is more open and lest air pass. A soft cap gives a
smoother sound, a
more diffused high end.
Mic placement.When you are in the audience at a concert and right in front of the band, right in front of a loud guitar cabinet you’ll notice that if you move to the left of right of a certain spot that the piercing treble will be less when you are off axis to the cab. This is called beaming, where your ears are right at the speakers treble peak and right in line with the beam of sound from the dust cap area.
The opposite is when when you have your amp on the floor and are standing up above the amp and it sounds more full. What you are hearing is a lot less teble and the piercing sound is pointed towards your knees more than your ears. When you get on your knees or raise the amp up on a chair and have it closer to ear level you can hear the treble a lot more. Sometimes this sounds pretty bad. At any rate it will let you know more closely how your amp really sounds. You want the amp to sound good at ear level because this is how the mic is going to hear it. If the amp sounds bad with your ear about a foot way (at a reasonable, not too loud volume or course) then the mic is going to reproduce that sound.
I have found that micing an amp at about ear level (5-6 feet) with the mic facing the amp at a downward angle can sound good for a more diffused sound. This is the same sound you usually hear while standing and playing through your amp.

Rotating the mic angle will change the
sound as well as how close or far the mic is from
the dustcap. If the mic is inbetween the dustcap and the
surround and pointed at the center of the speaker it wuill be brighter.
Rotated towards the surround will be less bright.

A decent mic:
See if you can beg,
borrow or steal a
Shure
SM58 or 57. These are standard dynamic cardiod vocal/instrument mics
for most bands and concert venues. Cardiod means that the mic picks up
most of the sound from the front of the mic. (Omnidirectional means it
picks up from all sides) Most any vocal mic your band uses will work
fine to record your guitar.
How a guitar speaker sounds
Guitar
speakers don’t have much high end or low end.
Most of the sound is concentrated at the mid range, this is
what makes up the typical sound of a guitar speaker.
Bass build up:
When you raise an amp up on a chair you change the bass
response. Not only will the amp be closer to the level of your
ears , but you will decouple the bass frequencies from
the floor and you will get a little less deep bass.
As with any speaker system, the closer to the floor, wall or
a corner, the more the bass increases. If you put your amp in a corner
and on
the floor you will increase the bass frequencies heard in the room.
Each wall will add more low end. 
Where you stand in the room makes a difference as well. Low frequency sound waves build up in the corners of a room with right angled walls. The low frequency energy is reflected off the walls and doubled up in corners and in "nodes" a bit away from each wall. (this distance depends on the room size) which causes a build up of low frequencies. These piled up waves are called standing waves. Since the low frequency sound waves are so long, they take a longer distance in which to dissipate. The chart on the right shows the areas bass builds up in a room.
So basically the low sound waves bend around and bounce off the walls of the room until they fold around and causes the room to vibrate and clog up with bass. This can be a good thing or a bad thing. If you have too much bass you can either: lower the bass, make sure your amp is not against a wall or in a corner, raise you amp up on something not solid ( a chair, a piece of thick foam, even amp caster wheels decrease the coupling to the floor. This goes for all speakers ,bass guitar and home stereo as well. Vibrations and coupling from hard wood and plywood floors can be helped this way as well.
If you have never played your guitar acoustically with the headstock pressed against a hollow door or wall and noticed the resonance...you should try this now. Notice how the resonance chages as you touch the wall/door and how it drops of as you break the connection
Unless guitar amps are really loud and cranked up, they wont have too much of this bass build up. It’s mainly a problem with guitar and bass amps and home stereo and full frequency speaker systems when cranked (50-100 watts etc) but you can experiment to see how it changes the sound. With low power amps it will be more subtle.
General room acoustics:
Thick soft material absorbs high and mid frequencies.
Depending on the density of the material( if it’s pretty
thick)
it may absorb bass as well. Generally
bass is absorbed by semi rigid material and transferred through
vibration into heat. (thick fiberglass and semi rigid panels
etc).
Most concert venues
are designed to absorb harsh reflections with people in the seats. This
is why
when you do a sound check at the club, hall, etc. before the
audience arrives,the acoustics are pretty bright
and have a good amount of live reverb and echo. When the
audience
files in and
the room fills up the sound changes dramatically. Human bodies are good
bass absorbers
(bass traps) and diffusers (sound bounces off an object and deflects
the sound waves producing a softer amount of sound reflection). Some
Modular bass traps are shaped like
cylinders about the size a human
body…
Mike says....
With the simple Sound Recorder that comes with Windows, you
can record a longer clip than 60 seconds.
What you do is basically extend it in
60 second increments.
First, record your 60 second clip then play it back, leaving
the slider to the extreme right-hand side.
Now get your guitar and get ready to add another 60sec, just hit the record
button when the slider is to the right, and it will add the next 60 seconds to
the end of the first, the total clip length will now be 120sec. Add another 60
the same way.
It does take a few minutes to do this, and then you usually have a worthless
180sec clip consisting of 3 completely different riffs or tempos, so don't
bother to save it, just move the slider to the extreme left and record a fresh
3minute tune, then you save that 3min tune as a single file.
Just over 10MB per minute is consumed when you record a wav file in stereo
44.1Hz, 16bit resolution, make sure to select these parameters from the main
Sound Recorder menu before recording, the submenu for this may seem like it is
for CONVERTING an already recorded file to a different resolution (it will do
that but it won't sound any better if it was recorded at lower resolution), but
the same procedure will set the recorder for this resolution if there is no
file open to convert. (at least thats the way it works in W9x, probably XP
too). I have found no evidence against the likelihood that XP has W95b inside
as kind of a *kernel*.
Anyway, when you compress a wav file to CD audio, there is very little loss
because there is very little compression, almost none, it is more like a change
of format than a space-saving file conversion.
And since so many sound cards have the stereo line inputs directly connected to
the A/D converter, all you need is to have a stereo mic preamp having lower
analog noise than audio CD playback systems (easier said than done), and you
can get full CD quality recordings. In stereo, using the line input with two
mics plus a two-channel preamp. Not requiring more than just a cheap soundcard,
this has been easily accompished since ISA soundcards first reached 44.1KHz
16bit, but disk space was largely not there at the time.
If your soundcard goes up to 48Khz, you might want to set it for 44.1
regardless, even though this is not the maximum performance of the soundcard,
then there is less resampling when you convert from wav to CD with your
favorite software (like Nero), since CD's are 44.1Hz, the data has to be in
that state anyway before burning the CD.
If you don't have a preamp, then you can always use the mic input on the
computer, but usually the on-chip analog mic preamp is an especially high-noise
design.
Any audio amp hobbyist can usually come up with a better sounding preamp than
that, then switch over to the line inputs to move up to full CD quality when
ready.
Until then, there is nothing wrong with plugging in a dynamic mic like an SM58
or equivalent straight to the mic input of the soundcard, even if the soundcard
puts the +5VDC (intended for electret computer mics) across the coil of the
mic, it will do no damage nor interfere with the recording.
To see if a dynamic mic can handle the +5v, measure the DC resistance of the
coil and use ohms law to figure how many milliamps is passing through the coil
when powered by the 5V, and what the power dissipation in watts is. There may
not be a maximum dissipation rating for the mic coil, but its usually a pretty
hefty chunk of magnet & copper and on a SM58 can surely handle as much as a
1/4 watt resistor.
Unless you have extreme noise coming in from the mic cable itself, you can
probably maintain CD quality even if you use an unbalanced mic cable instead of
the balanced one you expect to require. You might as well just use a 1/4inch
input jack like they do on other unbalanced inputs, then a guitar can go
straight in when you want that too.
And since we are only talking about CD quality, not the full demands of live
studio recording, you can also probably maintain CD quality without an input
transformer to the mic preamp, just unbalanced straight into an active very
carefully selected silicon or vacuum gain stage.
More important than impedance matching, usually the greater advantage of these
luxuriosly expensive mic input transformers is to provide a small factor of
noiseless gain as they step up the signal 2x to 5X before hitting the first
active device. The more you step it up with the transformer though, the more
the fidelity suffers, so they don't go too many times the amplitude of the raw
signal.
But its really overkill if you are just trying to achieve CD quality.
That sure opens up the possibilities for possible preamps doesn't it :-)
Hmmm, 1/4 inch jacks, no transformer needed, low noise gain stage, solid state
with hum-free power supply . . .
sounds to me like an Electro Harmonics LPB2, remember how these are about the
only EH pedal not to have a power connector for an AC adapter, its near
impossible to beat the low-noise performance of a 9V battery so why bother?
For portability, that would make it pretty convenient for using with a battery
powered laptop computer, too bad the stereo line inputs were mostly
discontinued on laptops by about 2003.
Those idiots. Still available on some top-of-the line Dells, but get them
affordably while you can on the recent and current ACER laptops, and the ACERs
are economy priced across the board, not usually advertised, the regular price
more than competitive with more well established laptop makers' discounts. ACER
is probably no Hewlett-Packard, but they have been making PC hardware for a
long time and survived the dot-com crash so take that for what it is.
So I guess that means lots of players without any audio software or special
soundcards, who just happen to have an LPB2 or two to work with and a couple
unbalanced 1/4 mic cables, probably already have the minimum hardware &
software needed and may not know it.
Naturally I didn't mention anything about editing or remixing, and the above
bare-bones scenario is mainly therefore to emulate *taping*.
Editing is extremely rudimentary with just the Windows Sound Recorder, and you
will need to have a full duplex soundcard & drivers and likely at least
some basic audio freeware in addition if you want to play back your tracks
while recording a new track or two for future remixing or real-time overlay. With
just one soundcard you can only record two live tracks at a time too, that's no
surprise. You can easily add more soundcards sometimes, but it can still turn
into a headache with incompatible hardware or drivers. And if you are going to
do any remixing you will really want as decent audio software as you can get.
But for just plain CD quality recording, two channels at a time requires
nothing that should be far out of reach.
There's more:
Once you get all set up to make stereo close-mic recordings of your amps with
SM58's etc. then all you really need is a set of not-too-expensive condenser
mics, and you can use the same computer, preamp, and software to record your
whole band in direct-to-CD quality.
(well, you can use the SM58's to capture the whole band but you will not have
the high-end from the cymbals & snare that you get from condenser mics.
58's do seem about perfect for right up against the grille cloth though.)
Of course you need to get the mics in just the right place fairly close to the
front of the stage to get a good stereo mix, and there's very few studio tricks
or remixing possible with the whole band thrashing away live in stereo on those
two tracks, but its pretty much like taping a concert. some tapes come out
better than others, that's life, you never know if the mics were that well
placed until afterward, but you can get good after some experience. You need
some ear-covering headphones but they do not need to be expensive.
Except since I'm still showcasing the amps, I like to aim the mics toward the
center of the stage at the combos or half stacks, then move the stands out
until the mics get enough vocals from the PA, for this (as well as the ultimate
quality of the vocals themselves) its always best when the PA has only vocals
in it, and if there's more than one vocalist, they are running a stereo mix to
some degree. Small clubs are best for this but in a big venue you get lots more
audience applause into the mics. One of the drawbacks of this near-field micing
of the band is the reduced volume of the applause unless its really intense.
But that is one of the things you can add later using software if you are
sneaky. plus if any musicians are captured telling jokes in between tunes they
could almost always use a laugh track in response ;-)
An alternative if there is too much guitar in the PA (it could happen) is to
put the booms up into the stage where the mics can get their vocals from each
singers monitor, there's usually plenty of guitars, bass & drums and
hopefully keys without having to get any of that from the PA. You can still
have the mics closer to the vocal speakers than the guitar amps, but aimed at
the amps you mix the two using the directionality of the mics as before.
Another hint, if you have run-of-the-mill mic stands with none of the studio
refinements, you can upgrade them yourself so the tubing doesn't ring or
rattle, examine each stand carefully and bang on it in various places to find
where you need to attach damping material, Sorbathane can be ideal but any soft
polyurethane is usually better than random plastic or rubber when you need
maximum damping from a minimum amount of polymer.
If you have those stands with the dang *machinist's vice* type adjusting
handles, lots of rubber bands can be better than the usual electrical tape to
keep them from rattling, that way when you adjust the stands you don't get goo
on your fingers which finds its way to the guitar strings. Mike