There are a few simple ways you can get a representative  sound clip of your amp.
Some of this is really basic but it always helps to start from the ground up.

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There are a few more parts to a speaker but these are the parts you are interested in for recording.

The speaker baffle:
This is the wood front of the guitar cabinet with a hole or holes cut to accept the speaker(s) Usually ½”  or ¾”plywood.

The speaker frame:
The stamped steel or cast aluminum metal shell that makes up the support of the speaker. 
The speaker frame is bolted to the speaker baffle. 

The Surround:
This is the outer rim of the speaker cone that connects the cone to the speaker frame. The surround is glued to the speaker frame at the outer edge. Sometimes companies add speaker “dope” on the surround which changes the tone a bit. This is usually a heavy glue like substance which is somewhat shiny.
The surround is sometimes smooth and sometimes ribbed like an                                                                                                                               accordion to enable the speaker to flex and push push out in a different                                                                                                                       way than if it was smooth. This too changes the sound and is a part of                                                                                                                         the way different speakers differ form one to the other.

The main speaker cone:
Some are smooth and some are ribbed. Both sound different. Take a look at Webervst.com and you can compare the differences.  
Vintage low wattage speakers used thin paper which compress and distort in a nice way. This is the sound of vintage small amps, and his is why people pay big bucks for the vintage sound. This thin paper has a very distinct sound. Some amp companies have gone to great lengths to get the exact thickness and type of paper used in these vintage speakers.

Most modern speakers made for high wattage use heavy paper to support the high wattage being reproduced. If you play loud rock and really push your speakers then this is what you need . If you are playing through a low wattage amp and don’t need the wattage you can afford to use the vontage thin cone material in vintage new and old speakers. Wars have been fought over these topics…

 The Dust cap:
In the center of the speaker the cone is glued to a tube that fits over the magnet. Most speakers have a cap glued over this opening called the dust cap. Some speakers have a paper cap and some have a mesh                                                                                                                          screen cap that is more open and lest air pass. A soft cap gives a                                                                                                                              smoother sound, a more diffused high end.  

Mic placement.
When you are close micing a guitar cabinet the closer the mic is to the dust cap/center of the cone, the more treble you pick up. Closer to the surround will give you more or a bassy although slightly distorted sound. Generally, micing the speaker somewhere between the dust cap and the surround is the sweet spot.
If you  can have someone play through the amp while you listen you can get your head up close to the speaker and hear the different tones of the surface area of the speaker.

When you are in the audience at a concert and right in front of the band, right in front of a loud guitar cabinet you’ll notice that if you move to the left of right of a certain spot  that the piercing treble will be less when you are off axis to the cab. This is called beaming, where your ears are right at the speakers treble peak and right in line with the beam of sound from the dust cap area. 

The opposite is when when you have your amp on the floor and are standing up above the amp and it sounds more full. What you are hearing is a lot less teble and the piercing sound is pointed towards your knees more than your ears.  When you get on your knees or raise the amp up on a chair and have it closer to ear level you can hear the treble a lot more. Sometimes this sounds pretty bad. At any rate it will let you know more closely how your amp really sounds. You want the amp to sound good at ear level because this is how the mic is going to hear it. If  the amp sounds bad with your ear about a foot way (at a reasonable, not too loud volume or course) then  the mic is going to reproduce that sound.

I  have found that micing an amp  at about ear level (5-6 feet) with the mic facing the amp at a downward angle can sound good for a more diffused sound. This is the same sound you usually hear while standing and playing through your amp.

Rotating the mic angle will change the sound as well as how close  or far  the mic is from the dustcap.  If the mic is inbetween the dustcap and the surround and pointed at the center of the speaker it wuill be brighter. Rotated towards the surround will be less bright.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              

A decent mic:
See if you can beg, borrow or steal a Shure SM58 or 57. These are standard dynamic cardiod vocal/instrument mics for most bands and concert venues. Cardiod means that the mic picks up most of the sound from the front of the mic. (Omnidirectional means it picks up from all sides) Most any vocal mic your band uses will work fine to record your guitar.  


The main thing you are concerned with it that the mic has the ability to take a lot of volume. The SM58 and similar mics are really almost bullet proof as far as being able to withstand a lot of volume and still producing a decent sound. There are a lot of mics that will work fine for getting a decent guitar sound recorded. Aim for a good dynamic cardiod vocal mic and you will be fine.  Omnidirectional works well but most vocal mics pick up in a cardioid patern.  An SM57 should be around 50 to $100 new. I usually buy them for $75

                                    

How a guitar speaker sounds
Guitar speakers don’t have much high end or low end. Most of the sound is concentrated at the mid range,  this is what makes up the typical sound of a guitar speaker. 

Bass build up:
When you raise an amp up on a chair you change the bass response. Not only will the amp be closer to the level of your ears , but you will decouple the bass frequencies from the floor and you will get a little less deep bass.
As with any speaker system, the closer to the floor, wall or a corner, the more the bass increases. If you put your amp in a corner and on the floor you will increase the bass frequencies heard in the room. Each wall will add more low end. 

Where you stand in the room makes a difference as well. Low frequency sound waves build up in the corners of a room with right angled walls. The  low frequency  energy is reflected off the walls and doubled up in corners and in "nodes"  a bit away from each wall. (this distance depends on the room size) which causes a build up of low frequencies. These piled up waves are called standing waves. Since the low frequency sound waves are so long, they take a longer distance in which to dissipate.  The chart  on the right shows the areas bass builds up in a room.

So basically the low sound waves bend around and bounce off the walls of the room until they fold around and causes the room to vibrate and clog up with bass.  This can be a good thing or a bad thing. If you have too much bass you can either: lower the bass, make sure your amp is not against a wall or in a corner,  raise you amp up on something not solid ( a chair, a piece of thick foam, even amp caster wheels decrease the coupling to the floor. This goes for all speakers ,bass guitar and home stereo as well. Vibrations and coupling from hard wood  and plywood floors can be helped this way as well. 

 If you have never played your guitar acoustically with the headstock pressed against a hollow door or wall and noticed the resonance...you should try this now.  Notice how the resonance chages as you touch the wall/door and how it drops of as you break the connection

Unless guitar amps  are really loud and cranked up, they wont have too much of this bass build up. It’s mainly a problem with guitar and bass amps and  home stereo and full frequency speaker systems when cranked (50-100 watts etc) but you can experiment to see how it changes the sound. With low power amps it will be more subtle. 

General room acoustics:
Thick soft material absorbs high and mid frequencies. Depending on the density of the material( if it’s pretty thick) it may absorb bass as well. Generally bass is absorbed by semi rigid material and transferred through vibration into heat. (thick fiberglass and semi rigid panels etc). Most concert venues are designed to absorb harsh reflections with people in the seats. This is why when you do a sound check at the club, hall, etc.  before the audience arrives,the acoustics are pretty bright and have a good amount of live reverb and  echo. When the audience files in and the room fills up the sound changes dramatically. Human bodies are good bass absorbers (bass traps) and diffusers (sound bounces off an object and deflects the sound waves producing a softer amount of sound reflection). Some Modular bass traps are shaped like cylinders about the size a  human body…

If you have large bookcases and furniture around the room and against the wall your room be won't be too bad off. Desks, blinds, heavy padded furniture, beds and sofas all suck up some of the ambience of the room. The idea behind this article is to make a decent guitar recording not record a chamber orchestra, but still these rules apply if you want to do that.

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Mike says....

With the simple Sound Recorder that comes with Windows, you can record a longer clip than 60 seconds. 
What you do is basically extend it in 60 second increments.

First, record your 60 second clip then play it back, leaving the slider to the extreme right-hand side.
Now get your guitar and get ready to add another 60sec, just hit the record button when the slider is to the right, and it will add the next 60 seconds to the end of the first, the total clip length will now be 120sec. Add another 60 the same way.
It does take a few minutes to do this, and then you usually have a worthless 180sec clip consisting of 3 completely different riffs or tempos, so don't bother to save it, just move the slider to the extreme left and record a fresh 3minute tune, then you save that 3min tune as a single file.

Just over 10MB per minute is consumed when you record a wav file in stereo 44.1Hz, 16bit resolution, make sure to select these parameters from the main Sound Recorder menu before recording, the submenu for this may seem like it is for CONVERTING an already recorded file to a different resolution (it will do that but it won't sound any better if it was recorded at lower resolution), but the same procedure will set the recorder for this resolution if there is no file open to convert. (at least thats the way it works in W9x, probably XP too). I have found no evidence against the likelihood that XP has W95b inside as kind of a *kernel*.

Anyway, when you compress a wav file to CD audio, there is very little loss because there is very little compression, almost none, it is more like a change of format than a space-saving file conversion.

And since so many sound cards have the stereo line inputs directly connected to the A/D converter, all you need is to have a stereo mic preamp having lower analog noise than audio CD playback systems (easier said than done), and you can get full CD quality recordings. In stereo, using the line input with two mics plus a two-channel preamp. Not requiring more than just a cheap soundcard, this has been easily accompished since ISA soundcards first reached 44.1KHz 16bit, but disk space was largely not there at the time.
If your soundcard goes up to 48Khz, you might want to set it for 44.1 regardless, even though this is not the maximum performance of the soundcard, then there is less resampling when you convert from wav to CD with your favorite software (like Nero), since CD's are 44.1Hz, the data has to be in that state anyway before burning the CD.

If you don't have a preamp, then you can always use the mic input on the computer, but usually the on-chip analog mic preamp is an especially high-noise design.
Any audio amp hobbyist can usually come up with a better sounding preamp than that, then switch over to the line inputs to move up to full CD quality when ready.

Until then, there is nothing wrong with plugging in a dynamic mic like an SM58 or equivalent straight to the mic input of the soundcard, even if the soundcard puts the +5VDC (intended for electret computer mics) across the coil of the mic, it will do no damage nor interfere with the recording.
To see if a dynamic mic can handle the +5v, measure the DC resistance of the coil and use ohms law to figure how many milliamps is passing through the coil when powered by the 5V, and what the power dissipation in watts is. There may not be a maximum dissipation rating for the mic coil, but its usually a pretty hefty chunk of magnet & copper and on a SM58 can surely handle as much as a 1/4 watt resistor.

Unless you have extreme noise coming in from the mic cable itself, you can probably maintain CD quality even if you use an unbalanced mic cable instead of the balanced one you expect to require. You might as well just use a 1/4inch input jack like they do on other unbalanced inputs, then a guitar can go straight in when you want that too.
And since we are only talking about CD quality, not the full demands of live studio recording, you can also probably maintain CD quality without an input transformer to the mic preamp, just unbalanced straight into an active very carefully selected silicon or vacuum gain stage.
More important than impedance matching, usually the greater advantage of these luxuriosly expensive mic input transformers is to provide a small factor of noiseless gain as they step up the signal 2x to 5X before hitting the first active device. The more you step it up with the transformer though, the more the fidelity suffers, so they don't go too many times the amplitude of the raw signal.
But its really overkill if you are just trying to achieve CD quality.

That sure opens up the possibilities for possible preamps doesn't it :-)

Hmmm, 1/4 inch jacks, no transformer needed, low noise gain stage, solid state with hum-free power supply . . .
sounds to me like an Electro Harmonics LPB2, remember how these are about the only EH pedal not to have a power connector for an AC adapter, its near impossible to beat the low-noise performance of a 9V battery so why bother?

For portability, that would make it pretty convenient for using with a battery powered laptop computer, too bad the stereo line inputs were mostly discontinued on laptops by about 2003.
Those idiots. Still available on some top-of-the line Dells, but get them affordably while you can on the recent and current ACER laptops, and the ACERs are economy priced across the board, not usually advertised, the regular price more than competitive with more well established laptop makers' discounts. ACER is probably no Hewlett-Packard, but they have been making PC hardware for a long time and survived the dot-com crash so take that for what it is.

So I guess that means lots of players without any audio software or special soundcards, who just happen to have an LPB2 or two to work with and a couple unbalanced 1/4 mic cables, probably already have the minimum hardware & software needed and may not know it.

Naturally I didn't mention anything about editing or remixing, and the above bare-bones scenario is mainly therefore to emulate *taping*.
Editing is extremely rudimentary with just the Windows Sound Recorder, and you will need to have a full duplex soundcard & drivers and likely at least some basic audio freeware in addition if you want to play back your tracks while recording a new track or two for future remixing or real-time overlay. With just one soundcard you can only record two live tracks at a time too, that's no surprise. You can easily add more soundcards sometimes, but it can still turn into a headache with incompatible hardware or drivers. And if you are going to do any remixing you will really want as decent audio software as you can get.

But for just plain CD quality recording, two channels at a time requires nothing that should be far out of reach.


There's more:

Once you get all set up to make stereo close-mic recordings of your amps with SM58's etc. then all you really need is a set of not-too-expensive condenser mics, and you can use the same computer, preamp, and software to record your whole band in direct-to-CD quality.

(well, you can use the SM58's to capture the whole band but you will not have the high-end from the cymbals & snare that you get from condenser mics. 58's do seem about perfect for right up against the grille cloth though.)

Of course you need to get the mics in just the right place fairly close to the front of the stage to get a good stereo mix, and there's very few studio tricks or remixing possible with the whole band thrashing away live in stereo on those two tracks, but its pretty much like taping a concert. some tapes come out better than others, that's life, you never know if the mics were that well placed until afterward, but you can get good after some experience. You need some ear-covering headphones but they do not need to be expensive.

Except since I'm still showcasing the amps, I like to aim the mics toward the center of the stage at the combos or half stacks, then move the stands out until the mics get enough vocals from the PA, for this (as well as the ultimate quality of the vocals themselves) its always best when the PA has only vocals in it, and if there's more than one vocalist, they are running a stereo mix to some degree. Small clubs are best for this but in a big venue you get lots more audience applause into the mics. One of the drawbacks of this near-field micing of the band is the reduced volume of the applause unless its really intense. But that is one of the things you can add later using software if you are sneaky. plus if any musicians are captured telling jokes in between tunes they could almost always use a laugh track in response ;-)

An alternative if there is too much guitar in the PA (it could happen) is to put the booms up into the stage where the mics can get their vocals from each singers monitor, there's usually plenty of guitars, bass & drums and hopefully keys without having to get any of that from the PA. You can still have the mics closer to the vocal speakers than the guitar amps, but aimed at the amps you mix the two using the directionality of the mics as before.

Another hint, if you have run-of-the-mill mic stands with none of the studio refinements, you can upgrade them yourself so the tubing doesn't ring or rattle, examine each stand carefully and bang on it in various places to find where you need to attach damping material,  Sorbathane can be ideal but any soft polyurethane is usually better than random plastic or rubber when you need maximum damping from a minimum amount of polymer.
If you have those stands with the dang *machinist's vice* type adjusting handles, lots of rubber bands can be better than the usual electrical tape to keep them from rattling, that way when you adjust the stands you don't get goo on your fingers which finds its way to the guitar strings. Mike

 

Tip: If you have acces to a PA system or just a micstand, mic and headphones, do this test:
Use a knucke, the shaft of a screwdriver, a drum stick etc. and tap fairly hard at different points of the stand. Notice any ringing or vibrations that sound bad?
You can stop this easily.
Take out the top/innermost metal  tube of a straight mic stand. And fill it with sand. Seal the end with silicon to keep the sand in. This adds mass as well as damping to the stand. Ringing and noise from the stage and or wodden floors will be greatly reduced.

For boom stands fill the innermost tube which connects to the mic clip. The sand will help with making a more stable stand for any mic holding purposes… Mouse pads are nice for keeping down stage rumble as well. Place a mouse pad under a round base stand, or cut a pad up into 4 pieces and place a small pad under each leg of a stand with three legs.   Drum and vocal mics will thank you!  John




I'll be adding to this, let me know if you have anything you want to add.


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